5/27/2003 04:35:20 PM|||Scott Lewis|||

It's time to poke a doughnut-sized hole into the notion that Americans want healthier food. The fastest-growing dining category nationwide last year wasn't fine dining or family restaurants: It was doughnut shops.

That's right, doughnuts — as in, how many calories can you cram into that deep-fried glazed, stuffed with jelly? The $3.6 billion category sizzled with 9% sales growth last year — about twice the industry average, according to a yet-to-be-released study by Technomic, a restaurant consultancy.

The three fastest-growing doughnut chains: Dunkin' Donuts, Krispy Kreme and Tim Hortons.

Some experts attribute the growth to consumers' desire for small indulgences during stressful times. Others credit the nation's multitasking consumers who like to drive, eat and talk on cell phones at once.

Others cite the bum economy. "The tighter the economy, the better doughnuts sell," says Bob Pitts, a technologist at Dunkin' Donuts. "A dozen donuts for $5 is not a lot of money to feed a family."

Nutritionists are alarmed. "There's no redeeming quality in a doughnut," says Hope Warshaw, author of A Guide to Healthy Restaurant Eating. "It's high in sugar, fat and calories." The average glazed doughnut: about 200 calories. Adds dietitian Robyn Flipse: "Most disturbing is that many think of doughnuts as breakfast. Nutritionally, it's a terrible way to start the day."

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|||110539658083143172|||Jumpin' jelly! Doughnuts dominate dining growth